Run by australian ex-pats, this is a welcome new addition to Hanoi's Old Quarter. Right in the heart of "back-packerland," Lay Bac 135 is a little sanctuary. Good-value food (prices ranging from VND 10,000 to VND 39,000) include traveller staples such as baguette sandwiches, pizzas (VND 28,000 to VND 60,000), and savoury crepes, as well as Vietnamese cuisine.

There's a bar/TV area downstairs, as well as a traditional tube-house setting, first floor. Alternatively, prop yourself up at the bar for a chat with a cocktail or beer after a long day, or get caught-up in regular Lay Bac party and theme rights.